El Paso — The site of the memorial is a parking lot behind the Walmart and a Hooters. Twenty-two white wooden crosses line a fence separating the two buildings. Each victim’s name is written in black marker. Throughout the week, people piled flowers and candles on the shrines. Mourners hung homemade posters on the fence — some with messages to the president, some not.

The day I arrived in El Paso, I counted 159 steps from the memorial’s start to its end. When I left, the number had grown to 273. Greg Zanis,
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